“Most of the time, our fish come up with it, rather than go down with it, so when we’re watching our line, almost all the time the line goes slack,” he explained. “We use light-wire, needle-sharp hooks, so you can set the hook with a flip of your wrist. You don’t need a stiff rod to set the hook. There’s no reason to slam the hook home, unless you’re using some of those old, real cheap tear drops.”
As the bite slowed again, we moved. Deeper.
“When you’re fishing deep you have to make a fairly decent arm sweep to even detect you have a fish on,” he said. “If they come up with it, you’ve got nothing until you move about two feet of line toward setting the hook.”
We kept fishing, moving, fishing. By late morning the bite had slowed to a crawl, but Boedeker was catching one here, one there, slowly building a pretty decent catch.
“The most common mistake I see is people not having control of their line,” he said. “You can’t have any slack between your jig and your arm. Your line has to be as straight as possible so the wind doesn’t bother it.
“If you’re using a spring bobber it has to be loaded so you can detect your up bites and your down bites.
“Most anglers don’t have the correct weight of jig for their line or their spring bobber,” he continued. “Your jig has to keep your line fairly straight — and if it doesn’t — you have to down-size your line. It’s all a matter of matching your hook and your line, size-wise. You don’t want your hook overpowering your line or your line overpowering your hook.”