Houdek Dunes Natural Area, one of the Leelanau Conservancy's largest preserves, is a microcosm of nearby Sleeping Bear Dunes and its dune environment.
But what's really striking as you hike through the 330-acre tract are the large trees scattered along the hiking trails and throughout the preserve.
Stands of huge white birch that you find as you hike provide the signature backdrop here. The bright white birches, many over a century old, are impossible to miss. You won't find many white birch that reach this advanced age. It's highly unusual for a transition species, but woodland pockets created by natural dips in the dunes have protected and sheltered these ancient giants from harsh winds and elements allowing them to thrive.
There are also large red oaks, cottonwoods, red pine and sugar maples scattered among the hardwoods in the sheltered valleys and many of these large trees also appear to be around the century mark.
Hiking along the trails with a group led by the Conservancy's stewardship director, Jenee Rowe, we came across an ancient sugar maple with one of the biggest wing spans I've ever seen. Underneath the trees massive limbs sit a couple of benches, which are just perfect for a contemplative stop in this beautiful location. Far enough from busy M-22 you won't hear any traffic noise, just the peaceful sound of leaves rustling in the breeze.
"We don't know how old this sugar maple actually is, but it's well over a century," said Rowe. "I've heard estimates of 150 years or more, perhaps as much as 200."
It's highly likely that it was a seedling when the first European settlers arrived in this region and just a young tree when our country went to war with itself during the Civil War.
When you first hike the steps at the trailhead to climb up into the dunes the stands of quaking aspen along the top of the ridge are clones, according to Rowe.
"One of several aspen groupings we encounter throughout the property, they share a common root system and have identical genetic makeup," she pointed out.
Right now there's about a mile-and-a-half of hiking trails that encompasses two loops. Next year, according to Rowe, they hope to add another mile or two of more trails.
"It's beautiful in here year-round, in all seasons," emphasized the Conservancy docent. "It gets a lot of use, and, being one of our larger properties, there's room to develop more trails. People love to cross-country ski and snowshoe here in the winter. A couple of more miles of trail would make it much more desirable for all hiking and snowsports."
What makes it a miniature-like version of Sleeping Bear are the same transitional qualities that mark the national park. You have creeks, wetlands, and, a quarter-mile inland from Lake Michigan, active and stabilized dunes that form a border between the upland hardwood forests and Houdek Creek. There are even blowout dunes just like you find among the National Lakeshore dunes.
It's not a long hike, but once you climb those stairs at the trailhead you will be amazed at the different environments and vistas you encounter along the hike. Like the rest of Leelanau County and northern Michigan this landscape was glacially formed and was once part of a shallow sea that covered the Great Lakes basin creating the sand dunes, according to Rowe.
She also pointed out that you need to be observant when hiking the trails. In addition to the normal squirrels, grouse, deer and turkey you are likely to see, there has been evidence of occasional black bear in the preserve; although nobody has ever run into one during the six or so years that the trails have been in place.
"Area residents have also reported seeing a cougar in the area, but, again, no encounters," said the land steward. "None of our conservancy personnel have seen any signs of one, but it doesn't mean they aren't out there. These big cats are very stealthy. Someday I hope to see one in the wild -- from a distance of course."
For more information on the Houdek Dunes Natural Area and directions to the trailhead you can log onto theconservancy.com. You can also download from the website a small self-guided brochure and checklist of things to see along the hike. With plentiful hardwoods scattered throughout the preserve this will make a colorful fall hike.
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