The sun is bright today, so bright that the light reflecting off the snow is glaring -- a case for sunglasses.
The fishery next door brought in heavy equipment this week, the kind needed to move the snow from the pier, and this morning I saw a truck going up and down the pier. These are signs of spring in far northern Michigan.
And these things, along with the wide dark blue (an exquisite hue!) of the open water in the ice triggers a strong case of spring fever in this household.
The fishery's boats will be going out very soon. One fishing neighbor takes his family off to Mexico in late November, and they've returned. Those who don't know commercial fishing might be tempted to think, "Ah, that's the life. Work six months, play six months."
Little do they know: Commercial fishing is the most dangerous profession of all, number one. The fishing families, our neighbors, don't talk about that. Further, out of respect for their wishes (and maybe superstitions), I don't repeat tragic tales of the profession.
But let me say this: They work hard, face danger daily, and are arch professionals. By that I mean, they care for their boats, their equipment, the nets, the fishery itself is as clean as a Munson surgical suite. These are the rooms where the whitefish are cleaned and filleted; the bright orange roe (caviar) is harvested. I am very happy to see my hard-working neighbors back from Mexico.
Like everyone, I am concerned about the price of food. I know, it's the price of gas, transporting foods from farm to city.
At a produce store last week, one single leek was $1.69. I'm growing leeks this year, Blue Solaise and a new (to the seed companies), old heirloom type called Giant Mussleburg. Makes me realize that farmers, too, are hard working and professional. Like me, they might have spring fever. I wonder if they are waiting, watching for the ground to be right for their planting machinery.
Spring affects the food scene, too, of course. The heavy stews and stuffed chops leave the restaurant menus (although they still are welcome in home kitchens on occasional blustery spring days). The roast Easter lamb is now loin chops served with baby greens, and of course, asparagus.
Asparagus reminds me of some of my early culinary education. My mother overcooked vegetables. As I've often mentioned, my brother threatened to report her for cruelty to green beans.
So, yes. we had asparagus and, yes, it was mush. I learned that asparagus is properly underdone in Montreal. Before our second child was born, we took a trip to the old city and ate at a famous French restaurant. We were surprised when they served warm, nearly raw asparagus, with melted butter for dipping, and we were both surprised and worried that the prices of meals were not on the menu. How graceful! How scary! We learned a lot at that meal.
Asparagus was also involved in my discovery of specialized kitchen equipment. He-Who-Must-Be-Fed worked with a genteel young man who became a close friend. Bennett was single and had an apartment that was refined and luxurious. He asked us to dinner, and, while chatting in the kitchen as he cooked, I saw this intriguing container called an asparagus steamer.
Oh, wow! I have never owned one, but to this day, I break asparagus stalks into three pieces: The shortest tough end goes into compost. The middle pieces go into the saucepan with a little water, and the tips are reserved, put into the saucepan the last minute of cooking or steaming.
1-2-3, and I think of Ben, of Montreal, and of spring.
Happiness Asparagus
1/4 c. Kikkoman Stir-Fry Sauce
1 T. water
1 T. vegetable oil
1/4 lb. lean ground pork
1/4 c. minced onion
3 oz. finely chopped mushrooms
1 lb. fresh asparagus, trimmed
Combine stir-fry sauce and water; set aside. Heat oil in hot wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. Add pork and onion; stir-fry two minutes until pork is crumbly.
Add mushrooms; stir-fry two minutes. Reduce heat to low; add sauce mixture to pan. Cook, stirring, until heated through, about one minute. Remove from heat; keep warm. Place asparagus in steamer basket. Set basket in large saucepan of boiling water; cover and steam five minutes, or until tender, yet firm. Spread half of pork mixture over bottom of serving platter. Cut asparagus crosswise into thirds; arrange in sections over pork mixture. Spoon remaining pork mixture over asparagus. Serve immediately. Serves four.
--Kikkoman
Sally Ketchum is a northern Michigan food writer. She says ramps, the wild leeks, will be up around her house soon, and this year she is going to learn how to use them in recipes. Sally can be reached at ketchum1985@gmail.com.
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