Published: February 11, 2008 09:45 am         

In the Kitchen: Family tales of fish

The first fish I recall seeing was a glowing red neon sign, a simply outlined lake fish, clearly a perch.

I was about 4 or 5. Its head pointed to U.S. 23, near Bay City, northbound lane. Its tail pointed to Mike's, a popular roadhouse across the gravel parking lot.

Back then in the '40s, those who lived to fish and ate fish to live agreed Mike's served the best gosh-darned perch in the state. We stopped there on the way to our cottage near Alpena.

So it was that Mike's perch, the first fish I tentatively nibbled, enchanted me with its bland sweetness and tender soft flakes. My Uncle George told me to "eat the tails, eat the tails." I did, and I loved the crunch of Mike-fried perch tails.

"Fish candy," he said.

He was right. How wonderful to be 4 years old and crunch perch tails!

The word with fish is "simple," as in starting with fresh, healthy fish. When shopping for fish, look for nearly a translucent color of the flesh.

Fish steaks and fillets should be neatly trimmed, and there should be no fishy (ammonia-like) odor, although fresh ocean fish might give off a whiff of seaweed. Fish should be clean, with no traces of blood. Signs of old fish are clouded eyes, off-color, grayish gills or a slimy feel.

The best preparation is also simple. My neighbors here, seventh-generation Lake Michigan fishermen, eat the morning's catch of whitefish boiled in water with potatoes and onions. They serve homemade spicy salsa on the side. That's it.

Although such simplicity is nearly too plain for our tastes so accustomed to spices, condiments and artificial flavorings, both sport and commercial fishermen know the rule: With fish, keep it simple.

Fish are good simply pan-fried. Vegetable oils, olive oils and vegetable shortening all work well. Usually I mix them, according to whim, perhaps adding a tablespoon or so of butter.

Since fish are a frequent meal for He-Who-Must-Be-Fed, to save time I mix large quantities of my favorite breading for pan-frying fish. I keep this mixture tightly covered and handy in a glass jar. Salt and pepper fish and add desired herbs or spices at cooking time.

Fish can also be dotted with a bit of butter and perhaps sprinkled with a few dried herbs before broiling or grilling. For baked fish, fresh herbs can be laid on fillets or stuffed into the body cavity. Fennel and dill are good for this. Choose flavors you like; tarragon is my favorite for fish and that of many chefs.

Onion and garlic powder -- lightly, to taste -- work nicely in rubs, too (pat gently, fish are tender). If you are new to using herbs or using herbs new to you, as always, take care: Use sparingly in the beginning, adjust to taste and learn to love them all. A few squirts of a fresh lemon bring brighten fish flavors.

I love to do easy gourmet fish with herbs like tarragon and fennel in a parchment packet with a tablespoon of white wine. A bit of butter smeared on the outside of the parchment turns the packet a pretty toast color during baking. Bake 20 to 30 minutes at 350 degrees, depending on size of portion. Slit X's into packet tops and partially open them. This is easy and appealing -- I think of it as "rustic bling."

Recently, with fish served to He-Who-Must-Be-Fed and his fishermen friends, I've offered flavored butters, some with ground nuts (pecans, hazelnuts, walnuts and macadamia nuts work nicely) and perhaps a little freshly minced garlic and, of course, a little tarragon. A teaspoon of the butter could also top the fried fish; just melt it under the broiler for a few seconds until bubbly.

I baked ubiquitous finger food fish sticks for my children when they were young. I would not do that now. I want to know what kind of fish I have, and cook it in a healthy manner.

Now I prepare fish thoughtfully, sometimes with a little imagination, but still simply. Yet, I am tempted to offer curious youngsters a few crunchy perch tails. I'll call it fish candy, with the pleasure of a family cook.

Ketchum's Fish Breading for a Fish Fry

1/3 c. unflavored (or herb flavored) bread crumbs

1/3 c. yellow corn meal

1/3 c. all-purpose flour

1 T. Old Bay Seasoning

Salt and Pepper to taste

Mix ingredients together and store in glass jar with tight top.

To prepare fish: Start with rinsed fish, patted dry with paper towels. Dredge in the breading mixture; let breaded fish rest on paper plates for 30 minutes. Heat oil until nearly hot 375 degrees. Dredge fish once again right before frying. Watch the frying oil carefully to adjust heat to avoid smoking oil. Add more oil or solid shortening between batches as needed. Fish will flake when done, but turn tough if overcooked.

Sally Ketchum writes and lives in an Upper Peninsula fishing village on the shores of Lake Michigan. A whitefish fishery is next door, and large carp swim around their docks. "Some people eat carp," Ketchum says, "but it isn't fish candy." Reach her at ketchum1985@gmail.com or care of the Record-Eagle.