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Published: February 23, 2008 09:47 am    print this story   email this story  

GTACS avoids meat recall with local foods

By Lindsay VanHulle
lvanhulle@record-eagle.com

TRAVERSE CITY -- Just before lunch, Jennifer Blakeslee stirred a pot of sloppy joe mix as it bubbled on the stove.

The sous chef held out a spoon so Michael Bauer could taste it. He swallowed the reddish sauce and thought for a moment.

"It needs something," he said. "I don't know. Salt and pepper?"

Blakeslee sprinkled a large pinch of each into the pot and stirred. When done, the mix was to be chilled and delivered to students in four schools the next day.

School districts across the state are disposing of meat in the wake of the largest beef recall in U.S. history -- 143 million pounds produced over the past two years at Westland/Hallmark Meat Company in California -- but those who prepare meals at local Catholic schools are ordering more.

The beef simmering in the sloppy joe sauce originated on a fourth-generation centennial farm roughly 35 miles away, not from a large-scale farm in rural California.

And that, the cooks say, makes all the difference.

As dining service administrator for Grand Traverse Area Catholic Schools, Bauer is leading an initiative to bring fresh, locally grown food into cafeterias at Holy Angels and Immaculate Conception elementary schools, St. Elizabeth Ann Seton Middle School and St. Francis High School.

And his crew prepares all meals from scratch -- everything from roasted chicken, seasoned with rosemary and garlic, down to the salad dressing.

"We didn't have to worry about the recall at all," Bauer said. "We're trying to use that whole mentality of locally grown products. It hasn't been stored in a warehouse in California."

The schools' beef was raised on 186 acres in southwestern Benzie County, and dates back to the early 20th century when farmer Randy Rice's great-grandfather purchased the plot.

Several months ago, Rice began selling meat to local restaurants, including Ciao Bella, Trattoria Stella and 310 in Traverse City. Before that, he sold mostly to individuals.

It doesn't surprise him that people are interested in his product, he said. His family's history, coupled with his growing practices -- Rice's 25 cattle are grass-fed and free of growth hormones -- are what he calls his best selling points.

"It's just all natural, whatever Mother Nature gives me," Rice said. "I just didn't like the idea of a bunch of steroids and antibiotics in the meat."

Other local schools also are showing an interest in Rice's products.

Funding is not available to rely solely on local meats, but Frankfort-Elberta Area Schools and Benzie County Central Schools are starting to highlight Rice's product by crafting specific menus, said Renee DeWindt, the county's food service manager.

Both districts served meat from the recalled farm, but they were not recently affected because there was no excess beef in storage, DeWindt said.

"I would rather deal with local purveyors," she said. "You can taste the difference."

And, Bauer said, the students certainly can.

Hot lunch participation across the school system has reached about 55 percent, Bauer said. Besides beef from Rice's farm, apples come from an orchard in Ellsworth and bread is purchased from Bay Bread Co. in Traverse City.

"It all starts with the basics, and that's using good products," he said. "Nothing's breaded or deep-fried here. It's the real deal."

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Photos


Holy Angels Elementary School first-graders Tyler Tafelsky, 7, left, and Payton Klumpp, 7, check out each other-s lunches in the cafeteria line. The choices that day included pasta fusilli, chicken cacciatorre and a salad bar. Grand Traverse Area Catholic Schools- Life Balance Initiative is bringing fresh, healthy meals prepared in house to the four schools in the district. Top, oranges and apples sit ready for students- lunches. Jan-Michael Stump/Record-Eagle (Click for larger image)


From left, sous chef Jennifer Blakeslee, site operator Cheri Julien and assistant sous chef Stacie McClellan prepare lunch in the Traverse City St. Francis kitchen. Jan-Michael Stump/Record-Eagle (Click for larger image)


Oranges and apples sit waiting to be used in upcoming school lunches. Jan-Michael Stump/Record-Eagle (Click for larger image)

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