Main courses were huge and tasty: beef cheeks cooked slowly with honey are a sweet and savory melt-in-the-mouth experience; a casserole blends the local sabodet sausage with red wine and lentils, epitomizing Lyon cooking’s simple use of great ingredients. For non-meat lovers, the quenelle de brochet is a light dumpling made from locally caught pike in a rich, creamy sauce.
To close out the evening, try the Saint Marcellin, a soft cow’s milk cheese, and a glass of eau de vie fruit brandy to help ward off indigestion.
The morning after this meal you are going to want to work off some calories. A great way to do it is walking up the steep hill behind the old town to visit the Basilica of Fourviere and gaze over the city’s rooftops. Then walk down and cut through the city center, crossing the Rhone and Saone, to reach the Halles de Lyon indoor market, where you can browse stalls selling more of the food you ate the night before.