Traverse City Record-Eagle

Food

March 21, 2013

Easter lamb cuts fat, not flavor

(Continued)

But egg-lemon sauces can be tricky because the sauce is thickened only by the egg. If you don’t cook it enough, the sauce won’t thicken. If you cook it too much, the eggs scramble. So I stabilized the sauce by adding cornstarch, which makes it creamy and curd-less, and allowed me to keep it hot over low heat without any worries.

I finished the sauce with chopped baby artichokes since artichokes and lemon are such a happy pair. I like frozen artichokes because unlike the canned or bottled varieties, there’s no salt or oil added to them. Then I caramelized them under the broiler for a few minutes to concentrate their flavor. Of course, if you have the time and inclination to prep and cook fresh baby artichokes, please go ahead. You can poach them in acidulated water until tender, then add them to the sauce.

How to serve this dish? One of our problems these days is what is delicately referred to as portion control. Less delicately, we eat too much. My strategy is to present protein on a plate so that it looks plentiful, even though the portion isn’t huge. In this case, 4 ounces of sliced steak, fanned out a bit, looks like more than 4 ounces of an unsliced steak.

Just be sure to let the steaks rest before you slice them so that they’re nice and juicy. And remember to add the juice from the plate with the resting lamb to the sauce, which will marry the two. See for yourself; it’s a happy marriage. Every bite’s a winner.

Grilled Lamb Steaks with Artichoke Lemon Sauce

3 T. finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves, divided

2 cloves garlic, minced

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1 T. plus 2 t. extra-virgin olive oil, divided

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