Through The Ages: A Thanksgiving menu that's true to our roots

What people ate on this holiday -- or during autumn feasts before the holiday was recognized -- is interesting.

George Washington declared a special day to give thanks, but Abraham Lincoln is usually credited with instituting a regular November Thanksgiving in 1863. Andrew Jackson chose a December day in 1865 and, finally, Franklin D. Roosevelt made it official that Thanksgiving would be the last Thursday of November.

Research on the holiday food, from the Pilgrims on, is sketchy, especially in the early centuries, but some records exist. The menu of an actual Thanksgiving feast served to Theodore Roosevelt is surprising in that it could be served today without being dated.

First, a fact check on the Pilgrims: They didn't have or wear big, buckled black hats. Actually, they wore most everything they owned to that first chilly gathering. Women wore all their petticoats and a well-petticoated woman had prestige.

Records of that autumn day in 1616 show that the Pilgrims sent out four hunters and they returned with a lot of game and venison. But the list of foods eaten at the three-day feast did not include turkey. However, scholars agree that turkey was "probably" eaten. The Indians supplied the food they were accustomed to -- vegetables from the squash family, wild fruits and berries, dried eels and (probably) more game.

John Bertram, a Pilgrim, wrote that a particular dish was very good: "A great bowl, full of Indian dumplings, made of new soft corn, cut or scraped off the ear, then with the addition of some boiled beans lapped up well in Indian corn leaves. This is good hearty provision."

The holiday lasted three days, and both Pilgrims and Indians participated in games of chance, skills and races.

Corn leaves were used to lap up the food. While modern Americans get their best silverware out for the holidays, even having silverware was rare at early feasts. One account of an early feast says, "a fork a guest brought to a feast was most useful." If people in the early 19th century didn't have silverware, they at least attempted to have manners: "Blow not thy meat. Smell not of thy meat, nor put it to thy nose. Foul not thy napkin but at one corner."

In the late 1800s and the early 1900s, wealthy American socialites favored the extravagance of Paris society dining, and the waste revolted Americans of modest means. It seems Theodore Roosevelt cared little about elaborate meals at his daily table, preferring local ingredients -- vegetables, meat and eggs. What mattered to Teddy was quantity. He had a gargantuan appetite for both food and drink. Theodore Roosevelt Jr. said that his father's coffee cup "was more in the nature of a bathtub."

Thanksgiving at Sagamore Hill, the Roosevelt home in Oyster Bay, N.Y., was an entirely different matter. A copy of the Thanksgiving menu there includes oysters on the half shell, celery, radishes, assorted olives, consomme, roast turkey with chestnut stuffing, giblet gravy, roast suckling pig (only because his favorite daughter, Alice, insisted upon it), cranberry sauce, applesauce, spiced crab apples, spinach, mashed potatoes, onions in cream, Brussels sprouts, mincemeat and pumpkin pies, vanilla ice cream, nuts and chocolate dragees -- the dark chocolate disks, tops covered with tiny white candies. He insisted upon these with his coffee.

Ownership of silverware aside, things haven't changed much -- like connections of food to politics, specifically courting voters with feasts. Some of the foods at these political gatherings became so popular that they later showed up at family holidays.

In the mid-18th century, Burgoo, a thick porridge, was a standard in an American ship's mess and found its way to political rallies. Burgoo included the meats we know as well as squirrel and any vegetables that were on hand.

Later, in 1828, Creed Haskins, a state legislator from Brunswick, Va., wanted a signature dish for a political rally he was hosting and Brunswick Stew was born. Chicken (replacing squirrel), bones of beef, veal, country ham and vegetables were cooked long, and the dish became standard, not only at political rallies, but also at cockfights, family reunions, tobacco curings and autumn feasts that celebrated the harvest.

In the hard times of recession, special meals meant anything that the family could afford, including "penny" dinners at churches, similar to today's potlucks. Better times followed, but gave way to war and families were hard-pressed again during WW II. Spam, introduced in 1937, ruled the frying pan on Thanksgiving for some. Still, the turkey remained for the lucky few, perhaps with more relatives contributing to the feast while sharing the bird.

Along with candies, nuts have been offered at feasts throughout history. Nowadays, they are more dressed up. Rosemary Walnuts appeared in 1972, and today's cookbooks are full of spiced, sweetly coated, toasted nuts. Whether our feasts are centered on turkey, goose, duck or a turduken (chicken in a duck in a turkey -- all deboned), history seems to suggest complementary dishes to serve with the bird.

Cover the giblets and the neck with 2 parts water and 1 part dry white wine. Add salt, peppercorns, parsley, onion and carrot. Bring to a boil for 1 minute.

Skim, cover the pan, and lower the heat. Cook gently for 1 hour. Strain the broth, cook it down to 1 cup, and season to taste.

Chop the giblets and set aside. When the turkey is done, add the juices from the roasting pan to the giblet broth. If you wish a slightly thicker sauce, stir in a little arrowroot, or knead together about 2 T. of butter with the same amount of flour and drop in little balls into the hot liquid. Stir the sauce until thick and well blended.

Bring water with salt to a boil in a large heavy saucepan. Add grits gradually, stirring constantly, and return to a boil. Simmer over low heat, stirring until thick and porridge-like and grains are tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in butter, parsley, green onion and pepper to taste, and cook, stirring, 2 minutes.

Put pearl onions in boiling water for no more that three minutes, drain and cool. Peel (or push from skins).

For sauce, combine -- over low heat butter -- flour, half and half, salt, cloves and parsley. Heat thoroughly and add onions. This can be made ahead and reheated.

Bake the nuts on a cookie sheet for 10 minutes. Cool. Keep in jars with covers between servings.

-- A food mill or ricer produces silky mashed potatoes. A masher produces chunky potatoes.

-- To make Garlic Mashed Potatoes, use two pounds of potatoes, cook. Toast about 2/3 c. garlic cloves with the skin on in a small skillet over lowest possible heat for about 20 minutes or until softened. Remove from heat, let stand, covered, about 20 minutes. Peel garlic cloves and drop into potatoes before mashing or ricing.

-- To make Mashed Potatoes with Root Vegetables, replace half the potatoes with 1 pound of parsnips, rutabagas, carrots or turnips that have been peeled and chopped into chunks. Mix or match so it totals one pound of root vegetables and one pound of potatoes.Cook root vegetables to desired consistency, drain and add to potatoes. Add half-and-half to desired consistency when mashing.

-- To make gourmet Green Bean and Mushroom Soup Casserole, add porcini (dried), cremini or button mushrooms as desired, rinsed well, and trimmed, fresh minced thyme or garlic to taste.

Put all of the ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth. Cover and refrigerate until needed. Keeps refrigerated for one week. Makes two cups.

Photos

Many small dishes complemented the entree at the turn of the 20th century Thanksgiving meals. The feast at Sagamore Hill featured celery and radishes, various relishes, spiced crab apples, creamed onions, cranberry sauce, and several desserts, nuts, and especially Roosevelt's favorite chocolates -- dragees -- with coffee. Special to the Record-Eagle