This article on Tuscan food, written by Nancy Krcek Allen, appears in full in today's print edition of the Record-Eagle. Although we aren't able to post Nancy's articles online, we do post her recipes.
Pasta e Ceci
2 c. dry chickpeas
3 T. extra virgin olive oil
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 large sprig rosemary
2 t. tomato paste
5 ounces dry tagliatelle or 1/2 lb. fresh pasta, broken or cut into 4-inch lengths
Bring chickpeas to a boil, turn off the heat and let them soak in the hot water for one hour. (Note: If you have hard water, add a teaspoon of vinegar (not balsamic) to the bean soaking water to help them soften.)
Drain the chickpeas and cover with fresh water. Bring to a boil and lower to a simmer. Cover and cook chickpeas until tender, about one hour. Purée 2/3 of the chickpeas in a blender, food processor or through a food mill. Mix the whole chickpeas with the puréed ones and mix in the chickpea cooking water to a soupy consistency.
In a large saucepan heat the olive oil and add the garlic and rosemary. Cook for a minute to infuse their flavor into the oil and add the tomato paste. Cook it another minute and add the chickpeas. Bring them to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the pasta and cook until done. Remove the rosemary sprig. Serve dish hot in a bowl. Makes four servings.
Italian tuna (tonno), packed in olive oil, gives this dish great flavor. Find it in Italian gourmet shops.
Tonno e Fagioli (Tuna and Beans)
1 medium red onion, finely minced
12 oz. white navy beans (2 heaping cups), soaked overnight, drained and cooked until tender (one hour)
7 oz. can tuna packed in olive oil, undrained
1/2 c. extra virgin olive oil
Flat leaf parsley, lightly chopped
Fresh squeezed lemon juice, to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper
5 to 8 oz. washed and dried arugula leaves
Mix the onion with boiling water a minute to soften its bite and drain. Drain the beans from their cooking water. (If you use canned beans, drain well before using.) Pour beans in a salad bowl and add the tuna. Break it up into small chunks with a fork. Add the chopped parsley, olive oil and lemon juice. Season beans with salt and pepper. Add the onion to the beans and toss well. Arrange the bean salad on a bed of arugula. Serve at room temperature.
You can substitute shrimp or grilled fresh tuna for the canned tuna. For an elegant party, serve caviar or diced smoked salmon in the beans. Italian wine bars often serve pickled or smoked herring on the side with beans. Makes four to six servings.
Gremolata is a classic Italian garnish of finely chopped lemon zest, parsley, and garlic.
Roasted Asparagus Soup with Spring Herb Gremolata
3 lbs. asparagus, trimmed, cut into 2-inch pieces (7 to 8 c.)
2 c. chopped leeks (white and pale green parts only; about 2 large)
Salt
1/4 c. olive oil
4 to 6 c. (or more) low-salt chicken broth
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 T. minced fresh Italian parsley
4 t. finely grated lemon zest
1 T. minced fresh tarragon
1 small garlic clove, minced
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine asparagus, leeks and salt in a large bowl. Toss with enough to coat evenly. Divide vegetables between two large rimmed baking sheets. Roast them until asparagus are tender and leeks are golden, about 45 minutes. Cool.
Purée 1/3 of vegetables in blender with 2 cups broth until smooth. Transfer to large pot. Repeat two more times, using half of remaining vegetables and 1 cup broth for each batch. Heat soup over medium heat. Thin with more broth by 1/2 cupfuls to desired consistency and season with salt and pepper. (You can make this a day ahead. Cool slightly. Cover and chill. Re-warm before continuing.)
Mix parsley, lemon peel, tarragon and garlic in small bowl for gremolata. Ladle hot soup into bowls. Sprinkle with gremolata and serve. Makes six to eight servings.
--Adapted from Bon Appetít
Tuscan Spring Vegetable Rustic Tarts
Pastry:
3/4 c. cold unsalted butter, diced
2 c. unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 t. salt
2 to 6 T. ice water
Ice water
Filling:
3 T. extra virgin olive oil
2 anchovy fillets, rinsed and minced
1 c. thinly sliced onion
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
3 c. washed and 1-inch diced, packed broccoli rabe
3 c. washed and chopped, packed escarole
1 c. washed, packed spinach or sorrel leaves
1/4 c. coarsely chopped parsley leaves and tender stems
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 c. toasted pine nuts
1 egg, lightly beaten
Egg wash: 1 yolk mixed with 1 T. water
For the pastry: Cut the butter into small bits and toss into a food processor or a bowl. Dump in the flour, salt and sugar. Pulse or cut the butter into the flour until it resembles cornmeal. Pour the processor contents into a bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour and add a little ice water. Toss it to mix evenly. Add only enough ice water so that the dough comes together. You don't want it to be a wet, tacky mess. Less water is better than too much. Press the dough into a flat disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate it for 20 to 30 minutes or overnight.
For the filling: Pour the oil into a large, deep pan and heat over medium. Add the anchovy and onion and cook until onion is soft. Add the garlic, cook for a few seconds and add the broccoli rabe and cook till wilted, about 3 minutes; add the greens. Season them with salt. Cook, turning with tongs, until greens are wilted and tender. Remove from heat and cool. Fold in pine nuts and egg.
Divide your chilled dough into 6 equal pieces. Roll each into a ball. With a little cornmeal sprinkled on your workspace, roll a dough ball out into a circle -- not so thin that it will fall apart.
Pile 1/6 of the greens in the center of the dough, leaving a 1- to 2-inch border all around. Lightly wet the border. Bring it up and pleat it around then press it all in by cupping your hands around in and pressing in. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. Brush top of tarts with egg wash.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the tarts on a sheet pan and chill them for 20 minutes. Place them into the oven and bake until golden, about 30 to 45 minutes. Makes about six tarts.
--Adapted from "Toscana Saporita" and Anne Bianchi
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