Dining Out: Lots of options for good cup of joe

TRAVERSE CITY -- Strolling through most waterfront towns, hardly a block goes by without encountering a wisp of aroma from freshly-brewed coffee. Here in downtown Traverse City, customers can count on a potent blend of brew skillfully served by seasoned baristas at these richly-appointed coffee shops: Cuppa Joe Warehouse Lounge, Espresso Bay and Island Juice Bar and Good Harbor Coffee & Bakery/Crema! Fresh Baked Cafe.

Jutting south from Grandview Parkway just west of Union Street is a trendy little industrial spur named Garland Street. Inside one of the cream brick buildings is the artsy digs of Sandi and Shayne Daley's Cuppa Joe Warehouse Lounge.

There's a raw urban feel to the place tempered by modern art and quality furnishings. Film and musical event posters splash the walls, and on designated nights, the once-abandoned warehouse is filled with sight and sound.

Time it right, and a goateed Noel Trapp, barista and poet, can be seen pulling shots of espresso while bantering about the virtues of a recently-read book. Order an Italian-style latte and he may craft a leaf figure into the foam.

Trapp's professional barista experience spans Bellingham, Wash., to Tucson, Ariz. To him, it's the right blend of coffee bean, the right roast and the right timing when pulling shots and steaming milk that creates the perfect coffee drink.

Smack in the center of downtown on Front Street is the upscale Espresso Bay and Juice Island.

When founder Ray Dornbusch was deciding on which brew to offer, he did so from Seattle, Wash., birthplace of Starbucks. After three years learning techniques from skilled baristas and sampling an array of beans, he created his own custom blend called Elite.

The Elite blend -- as well as other whole bean and varietals -- are batch-roasted in-house by a contraption resembling a miniature cement mixer. The warmth of the roaster and aroma of toasted beans add a touch of European authenticity to the place.

Todd Elsenheimer, who operates the store, believes Espresso Bay's uniqueness lies in its golden espresso.

"The color of the espresso is actually golden. It makes for an extraordinary drink," Elsenheimer said.

Inside the shop, cherry wood cabinets, granite countertops and earth-tone tiles glow under subdued track lighting. A cozy crescent of sofas surround a flaming fireplace, taking the nip off a chilly fall day.

Espresso Bay carries on in the shadow of the former Milliken's Department Store, which closed at this site in 2001. Apparently, the word hasn't reached everyone: Recently, three elderly ladies clutching hand bags entered the coffee shop in bewilderment, inquiring about the linen department.

You can walk in either direction on Front Street and still get an authentic European coffee drink. Punctuating both ends of downtown Traverse City is the diminutive Good Harbor coffee shop on the west side and spacious sister shop Crema! on the east. Both are owned and operated by Alice and Brad Campsmith.

In the world of coffee, crema is the layer of foam that naturally rises to the top of a freshly-drawn shot of espresso. Crema is what gives fine espresso its earthy presence -- and what inspired the name of this coffee shop. Crema! uses Metropolis espresso beans, winner of the 2007 "Microroaster of the Year" award by Roast Magazine.

"We took a trip to Chicago and tried a bunch of different blends. This one had the best crema," said Cara Nader, lead barista and manager.

In addition, espresso drinks call for a deft touch when steaming milk into foam topping. Steam must be introduced into chilled pitchers of milk at the proper depth, angle and duration to create dense foam. That's where the experience of professional baristas such as Nader comes in.

Although Crema's big-window corner location and street-side patio make for interesting people watching, most of the action is inside. On any given day, a sales team could be strategizing their next campaign; a radio personality may be kibitzing with co-workers; or a retired shop worker could be catching-up with a long lost friend. Artwork fills the walls and the mood is serene.

Down the street at the original location, the word "Bakery" in Good Harbor's name is not an afterthought. Most customers are powerless to leave without toting away a cookie, muffin or scone. Both locations offer freshly-baked foods at prices hovering around one dollar.

Whichever of the three shops is chosen, walking away with a steaming cup of freshly-brewed coffee, the chill of morning doesn't feel so dark, and anything seems possible.

Photos

Baristas Susi Haberlein, front, and Kelli Sandersonprepare coffee drinks for customers at Good Harbor Coffee and Bakery in Traverse City on Tuesday morning. Record-Eagle