Here is the story of a man, his vineyard and his gaggle of Guinea hens.
The man, one Robert Brengman, abhors using chemicals on his 45-acre Leelanau Peninsula vineyard. That's why he "hired" 15-plus Guinea hens to police his vineyards for unwanted pesky pests.
"The hens are quite amazing to watch. They travel around the vineyard in a group, patrolling for all kinds of unwanted pests," said Brengman, part owner of Crane Hill Vineyard, a "boutique" vineyard selling grapes to a new winery named Left Foot Charley's in Traverse City.
"Using these hens makes it possible for me to use fewer chemicals on the vineyard," he said.
Brengman's goal is to have his vineyard operate entirely on the principles of biodynamic farming in the near future. Purchasing the Guinea hens is just one of the steps he's taken in that direction.
The gray-blue hens, spotted with reddish and white-ish dots and patterned in dark blue, wear a kind of unsightly helmet on their heads. They behave much as the turkey does, roving in groups and clucking and cackling noisily as they make their way around the vineyard.
At times, they can be found perched in the trees together. At night, as if by some magical force, they come from hither and yon back to their "home" coop to catch a little shuteye and take in a little grub provided by Brengman.
Al Neugebauer, Brengman's friend, neighbor and sometime-helper in the vineyard, is fascinated by the birds.
"Isn't it amazing that they just know what to do? They came to the vineyard in a little crate, huddled together as little chicks -- panicky and scared," he said. "Soon they just went to work, knowing that it was their job to clean up the vineyard. Now, they are very curious and confident."
The hens are placed in various parts of the vineyard throughout the season, traveling by way of a coop on wheels. Their presence helps reduce the need for chemical treatments commonly employed to control fungus and pests like grasshoppers and grubs.
"We think that organic farming doesn't go quite far enough," Brengman said. "Biodynamic farming involves using all organic materials in the vineyard, but it also involves using the cycles of the moon, the sun, and the calendar, in the nurturing of the vines. In biodynamic farming, timing is everything."
Brian Hosmer, assistant winemaker at Chateau Chantal on Traverse City's Old Mission Peninsula, also has a keen interest in biodynamic farming -- especially as it applies to the wine industry.
"The whole concept in biodynamics is to build the immune system of the vines. That way, a grape grower doesn't have to use chemicals to control pests. When you have a more natural grape, you have a better tasting wine," said Hosmer.
Last spring, several area vintners took a trip to France to study their winemakers' methods and learn more about the industry. During that trip, several wineries that are certified biodynamic farms were visited.
"We saw that it is possible to grow grapes without chemicals," Brengman said. "It takes a shift in thinking, and it takes a mindset, and it takes time -- and yes -- it does take some risk. But the benefits to the earth and to the product itself, I think, are worth it."
As for the future of Crane Hill, the Guinea hens may be just the beginning.
"We're thinking of buying some baby doll sheep to help us mow the vineyard," said Brengman. "The possibilities are endless."
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