NORTHPORT -- People are always asking Mario Batali, America's quintessential Italian chef, how to grill like the Italians.
Now it's all spelled out in his latest cookbook, "Italian Grill," where readers will find 80 recipes and 60 full-color photographs -- all taken in Leelanau County -- in this comprehensive grillers handbook.
"All of my other books have focused on the formal Italian table or a restaurant," said Batali. "This book really talks about food I make for my family. This is the kind of thing I do all summer. It's delicious and simple," added Batali, who splits his time between Greenwich Village and his home near Northport that he shares with his wife Susi and sons Benno and Leo.
Batali owns several restaurants and is a frequent competitor on the Food Network's "Iron Chef" series.
Many Americans already know their way around a grill, but in this book Batali forgoes traditional barbecue sauces (which he says he loves as much as the next guy) and instead focuses on the subtleties of foods and their interaction with the heat.
"That's what Italian cooking is all about, the taste of the food and the interplay of the smoke," he said.
He writes: "The kiss of the fire and the iron grate can transform even the most quotidian vegetables or meats or fish into that hauntingly elusive perfect bite where the flavor of the natural product is enhanced, not masked, and the garden or the sea or the butcher shop and the flame unite to create an aria of flavor that renders worthy any effort it takes to get to the very point of enjoying it."
The book is a primer for those who have never set a match to charcoal, as well as for the grilling aficionado who wants to try all things Italian.
It begins with the right wines to serve and moves into grilling basics.
Readers will learn how to choose a grill. Batali doesn't promote one form of grilling over another; both gas and charcoal grills have their advantages and disadvantages.
While Batali has an outdoor kitchen, he said successful grilling doesn't take a lot of effort or outlay.
"All you need is a barbecue and counter. Once you're in charge of the heat, then you can do whatever you want," he said.
"Italian Grill" also covers techniques and equipment that are good to have: a good grill brush, tongs, basting brushes, drip pans, spatulas and skewers.
An alphabetized list of ingredients necessary for a truly Italian meal also are included, beginning with easy-to-find items like almonds and artichokes, as well as some ingredients that northern Michigan shoppers may have to hunt a little harder for, such as octopus and fennel pollen.
The recipes are organized into chapters beginning with antipastos, including Asparagus Wrapped in Pancetta with Citronette, Eggplant Rollatini with Goat Cheese, and Pesto and Thick Grilled Onions with Lemon Thyme.
Pizza and flatbreads are next. Batali includes recipes that incorporate a variety of flatbreads and toppings such as Focaccina with Roasted Garlic, Scallions and Provolone. He also includes an easy and versatile pizza dough recipe.
Subsequent chapters include fish and shellfish, poultry, meat and vegetables.
Batali stresses using what is in season and buying locally when possible and feeling free to make substitutions.
"It all depends on the level of commitment to the recipe," he said. "Once people learn the recipe you can substitute whenever you can locally. You should buy locally anyway. It's twice as good and less expensive."
Don't be afraid to substitute his ingredients with goodies like fresh, local whitefish, fruits and vegetables in season and local meats and cheeses, he said.
"You can make or buy a simple focaccina, grill it until it puffs up, slice it and stuff it with some roasted garlic, scallions and some of that great Leelanau cheese instead of provolone," he suggested.
"Pleva's Meats in Cedar isn't Italian, but they have some interesting things that speak of the area," he added.
For those who wish to stay true to the recipes, Batali said many of the ingredients can be found at specialty grocery stores in the area. He also said his dad, Armandino Batali, sells state-of-the-art artisan cured meats, including salami and pepperoni that have more character than most grocery store versions.
You'll find plenty of fresh produce this summer at local farm markets and roadside stands to make dishes like Corn as Italians Would Eat It and Eggplant Parmigiana Packets.
He includes a list of sources for meats, cheeses, olive oil, shellfish and more at the back of the book.
All of the book's color photographs were taken at Batali's home near Northport, including the cover, which shows him adding handfuls of mussels to the smoking grill.
"Every single one of the photographs was shot on my deck during one week. Right behind me out that window is a view of Lake Michigan," he said.
Batali also owns seven successful restaurants and his latest venture, which will air in the fall, is the PBS series "Spain ... On the Road Again," with co-stars Mark Bittman and Gwyneth Paltrow.
Pizza Dough
"This is an easy and versatile dough. I use the same basic dough for many flatbreads ... as well as pizza."
3&1/4 c. all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
2 t. instant or rapid-rise yeast
1 T. salt
1 T. sugar
1 c. warm water
1/4 c. dry white wine, at room temperature
2 T. plus 1 t. extra virgin olive oil
In a large bowl, combine the flour, yeast, salt, and sugar and mix well.
Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add the warm water, wine and olive oil. Using a wooden spoon, stir the wet ingredients into the dry until the mixture is too stiff to stir, then mix with your hands in the bowl until the dough comes together and pulls away from the sides of the bowl.
Lightly dust a work surface with flour and turn the dough out. Knead gently, dusting the work surface lightly with more flour as necessary, for 5 minutes, or until the dough is smooth, elastic and only slightly sticky.
Oil a large clean bowl, add the dough, and turn to coat. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel, set in a warm part of the kitchen, and let the dough rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Punch down the dough and it is ready to use. Makes about 1&3/4 pounds.
-- From Mario Batali's "Italian Grill"
Focaccina with Roasted Garlic, Scallions and Provolone
"Same dough as the pizzas, but a different format. Each bread is made from half the dough, rather than just a quarter, so it is thicker and puffs up more on the grill, enabling you to split the focaccine for sammies."
Pizza Dough (see above)
1/2 to 2/3 c. roasted garlic paste (see below)
2 c. grated young or semi-soft provolone
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced
1&1/2 T. chopped fresh rosemary
Preheat a gas grill or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.
Divide the dough into 2 pieces. Using a floured rolling pin, roll each piece out to a rough rectangular shape about 12 inches long, 6 to 7 inches wide, and 1/4-inch thick.
Carefully place one rectangle of dough on the hottest part of the grill and cook until the bottom is light golden brown and dry, about 2 minutes. Use tongs or a spatula to carefully flip the dough over and cook on the other side. Transfer to a cutting board and allow to stand for 2 minutes. Repeat with the second piece of dough.
Use a serrated knife to cut each focaccina horizontally in half: Hold the top of the bread with your non-cutting hand, maintaining consistent pressure as you carefully cut it into two even halves. Smear the garlic paste evenly over the top halves of the bread and divide the provolone evenly between the bottom halves. Sprinkle the rosemary over the garlic halves, and sprinkle the scallions over the cheese halves. Close the focaccine and wrap each one tightly in foil.
Place the sammies on the grill and heat, turning once, until they are hot and the cheese is melting, 5 to 6 minutes. Carefully unwrap, cut into 1&1/2-inch-wide strips with the serrated knife, and serve. Serves 6 as an antipasto.
-- From Mario Batali's "Italian Grill"
Roasted Garlic Paste
To roast garlic, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Slice off the top third or so of each garlic head, exposing the cloves. Wrap the garlic heads indivdually in foil and roast for about an hour, until the cloves are very soft. Let cool, still wrapped in the foil, then remove from the foil and squeeze out the soft garlic from the skins and put it in a bowl. Using a fork, mash the garlic to a puree. The garlic puree can be covered and refrigerated for up to one day; bring to room temperature before using.
Corn as Italians Would Eat It
"In Mexico, I have seen groovy little stands where the vendors poach ears of corn and then paint it with mayonnaise, dust it with chile flakes and grated queso fresco, and squeeze lime juice all over the whole thing. They do not do that in Italy, but this is what they might do. It's fantastic."
6 ears corn, shucked
1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil
3 T. balsamic vinegar
1 to 1&1/2 c. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
About 2 T. chopped fresh mint
Hot red pepper flakes
Preheat a gas grill or prepare a fire in a gas grill.
Place the corn on the hottest part of the grill and cook for 3 minutes, or until grill marks appear on the first side. Roll each ear over a quarter turn and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then repeat two more times.
Meanwhile, mix the oil and vinegar on a large flat plate. Spread the Parmigiano on another flat plate.
When the corn is cooked, roll each ear in the oil and vinegar mixture, shake off the extra oil, and dredge in the Parmigiano to coat lightly. Place on a platter, sprinkle with the mint and pepper flakes, and serve immediately. Makes 6 ears.
-- From Mario Batali's "Italian Grill"
Batali to sign books
Mario Batali will be signing copies of "Italian Grill" at Border's Books and Music in Traverse City, Saturday, June 28, beginning at 2 p.m. The book retails for $29.95.
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