Published: May 13, 2008 12:00 am      

Food in the Wood: Wild edibles are delicious, but know what you're picking

When the snow finally melts away from spring foliage, providing a sneak preview of tender young shoots and unfurling tendrils, the temptation may be there for a few hardy souls to see what Mother Nature has to offer the palate.

Many people forage for the romance of it all or because of the "back to nature" allure that fires an environmentalist's engine. However, as with the morel mushroom, northern Michigan's claim to epicurean fame, the quest may simply serve gastronomic cravings. Gourmets will attest to the fact that morels are just plain delicious sautéed in butter and heaped on a steak.

Foragers, armed with gathering baskets and sacks, may begin their endeavor as early as late April up here. But May brings morels and wild asparagus as the first real bounty of the season. Leeks, cattail shoots, Jerusalem artichokes (wild sunflowers); greens including dandelion, watercress, lamb's quarters and wild mustard; edible flowers like violets and daylily buds; wild berries and the roots or leaves of many plants that provide medicinal or tasty teas are there for the taking -- unless you are treading on private property or on a nature preserve.

Remember to forage with caution.

Doug Fuller, director of stewardship for Petoskey's Little Traverse Conservancy, prefaced his wild edible information with guidelines for safe gathering.

"Safe" is the operative word, said Fuller. "Be sure you know what you're doing when you pick wild edibles. There is danger in confusing the sprouts or leaves of one species with another, especially in early spring."

Plants are dangerous for a reason, said Tim Leach of Raven Hill Discovery Center in East Jordan.

"While some wild plants have adaptations that attract insects and animals, many make some kind of poison to keep them away. This helps ensure the preservation of individuals in certain species.

"Luckily, most poisonous plants, except mushrooms, have a nasty taste so you aren't inclined to eat them," Leach said.

Leach, along with his wife Cheri, has sampled many wild edibles on their property both out of curiosity and as part of a survival class for kids. "I can tell you that if you are eating wild leeks, your companions better be eating them, too," Leach said. "The taste can stay with you at least three days."

Most importantly, the Leaches advise foragers to be sure they are with someone who is well-versed in the identification of wild plants.

Learn more about wild edibles at Raven Hill Discovery Center by visiting them on line at www.ravenhilldiscoverycenter.org.

Boyne City's 48th Annual National Morel Mushroom Festival is scheduled for May 15-18. For a schedule of events and more information, go to www.morelfest.com/

The following recipes are from 1995's "Taste of Boyne Morel Mushroom Cookbook," published by the Boyne City Mushroom Festival Association.

Morel Custard

2 T. butter

1 large shallot, thinly sliced

1/4 t. thyme

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1/2 lb. fresh morels, split and coarsely chopped

1/4 c. chicken broth

1 c. heavy cream

Salt and pepper

4 morels, sautéed, for garnish

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Melt butter in a sauté pan over moderate heat. Add sliced shallot, thyme and garlic; cover and cook for 2 to 3 minutes to soften.

Add morels and chicken stock and cook until nearly all the liquid has evaporated. Add salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat.

In a bowl, beat the eggs and combine with the cream. Strain the egg mixture through a fine sieve.

Butter four 10-oz. custard cups or ramekins.

Divide the mushroom mixture into the cups and fill baking pan with one inch of hot water. Bake in oven until custard is set, 35 to 40 minutes.

Unmold custards onto plate, top with whole sautéed morels. Makes a nice appetizer or accompaniment to veal or chicken.

-- The Rowe Inn, Ellsworth

Breakfast Crepes with Mushroom Sauce

8 crepes

12 asparagus spears, cooked

10 eggs, scrambled with salt and pepper

4 strips bacon, cooked and crumbled

1/2 lb. domestic mushrooms, sautéed

4 ozs. grated cheddar cheese

1/4 lb. morels, sautéed

Green onions, chopped, for garnish

Sauce:

1 can cream of mushroom soup

1/2 c. dry white wine

6 to 8 ozs. fat-free sour cream

1/2 t. black pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine sauteéd domestic mushrooms and sauce ingredients. Simmer, stirring constantly, for 10 minutes; do not boil. Set aside.

In large ovenproof pan, place crepes one at a time. Fill with scrambled eggs and bacon. Roll, placing seam side down. Repeat with remaining crepes. Cover with asparagus, mushroom sauce and cheddar cheese.

Bake for 10 minutes. Garnish with green onions and sautèed morels. The sauce is also good over chicken.

-- Beardsley House Bed and Breakfast, Boyne City

Moe's Favorite Morel Sauce

1/4 lb. butter

3 green onions with tops, chopped

2 c. fresh morels, quartered lengthwise and rolled in flour

1 small clove fresh garlic, minced

1 c. heavy cream

1 C. chablis

Salt and pepper

Melt butter; sauté green onions, garlic and morels until morels are limp. Add wine and bring to boil for one minute. Simmer to reduce liquid. Add heavy cream and simmer 5 to 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve over poultry or steak.

-- Lena's Wine Cellar, Boyne City