Thirty-two miles off our western shore, just over the horizon and beyond our view, lies what some call the Emerald Isle. On the map it is more commonly known as Beaver Island. This gem of Lake Michigan is 13 miles long and 6 miles wide with a total area of approximately 40 square miles.
I've always been fascinated with maps and even more so with out-of-the-way places, especially islands. Just like the Manitou Islands, which we visited last year, Beaver Island is one of those spots I wanted to add to my list of destinations. Earlier in the year, we mentioned our idea to some good friends who agreed to join us and together we made plans.
A mutually agreeable week was set for late August and reservations were made. There are three ways to get to Beaver Island. You can fly, boat or swim. We all agreed that a 21/2-hour ride on the ferryboat, Emerald Isle, would be our best option. I'm not that good of a swimmer.
Our adventure began with an early departure from the dock in Charlevoix and, as we passed under the drawbridge, locals waved friendly good-byes as we departed the harbor. Our friend Jan, who is seasick prone, had medicated herself with a healthy dose of Dramamine. Needless to say, the calm seas that greeted us were a welcome sight to all and we tried not to draw too much attention to ourselves as we returned the barf bags to their dispenser. We wanted to look like old hands at this.
At the scheduled arrival time we sailed into the pristine Paradise Bay, which is also called Beaver Harbor. St. James, the only town on the island, is located on the bay at the north end of the island. Our rental car was waiting for us at the dock with the keys in the ignition. We came to the realization that islanders don't concern themselves with car theft.
Beaver Island is rich in colorful history, much of which can be learned with the aid of the helpful docents at the local Historical Society Museum.
Traders who supplied fish and wood to fuel passing Great Lakes steamships first settled Beaver Island. The Mormon era began in 1847 with the arrival of James Strang, who in 1850 declared himself king among his followers and ruled the settlement until two disgruntled followers murdered him in 1856. Following the Mormon era, an Irish influence grew and is still felt today as you dine at the Shamrock Pub or pick up some groceries at McDonough's Market.
The island boasts 45 miles of emerald green shoreline, most reachable on the 100 miles of scenic roads and more trails than one could explore in a month. There are two lighthouses to visit and abandoned cabins worth exploration. Beautiful beaches beckon all beachcombers for a stroll and possibly a dip in the brisk waters of Lake Michigan. Fishing is good around the island and in the lakes scattered about the interior. The sunsets observed from the beaches on the western shore are spectacular and a real photo opportunity.
I have always been curious about the notion of living on an island. The 600 year-round population is a friendly and hearty lot that could be described as rugged individualists. Their main connection with the mainland is the ferry operated by the folks at the Beaver Island Boat Company. It operates from April through December depending on the weather. For three months of the year, the only way to get to the mainland is to fly. Talk about having a long winter's nap!
I can only imagine standing on the dock in December watching the last boat leave, wondering if I'd stocked up on enough reading material and adult beverages.
As we returned to Charlevoix after an enjoyable two-day visit, we noticed four propane trucks waiting at the dock to be loaded on a return voyage. Winter is just around the corner and they are already starting to stock up.
If you've never visited Michigan's most remote inhabited island and you enjoy just getting away from it all and kicking back, add this jewel to your travel wish list.
Ed Hungness and his wife owned their cottage on Fife Lake for six years before moving there after his retirement in 2005. His writing draws from life experiences and a love for the outdoors and northern Michigan. He can be reached at edhungness@yahoo.com.
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