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"The red pepper lemon risotto is very rich, but with those flavors it's lighter -- but still with the warmth you need if there's still snow. The tortellini with boursin sauce is what I call naughty food. It's cheese and cream, but instead of mashed potatoes, which you can always get." A longtime Benzie County landmark, the restaurant underwent a complete renovation and reopened last Father's Day after being shuttered for years. Nugent said its homey, warmly elegant "English country inn" feeling makes it the perfect spot to enjoy Easter brunch. "I think for a lot of holidays people are doing more of that, and there are more restaurants offering a nice quality atmosphere," she said. "They're free to spend more time with their families instead of in the kitchen." Easter brunch at Brookside is served from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Reservations are recommended for parties of six or more (882-9688). Prices range from $6.95 for children 3 to 6, to $24.95 for adults. Easter dishes at The Manor in Glen Arbor include Crab Benedict and Baked Ham and Sweet Potatoes with Praline Sauce. "It tastes just like a praline from the South: brown sugar, butter, cream, pecans," said Nancy Wright, of the latter recipe, passed down from chef to chef. Diners can help themselves to a buffet that includes soups, salads, pastries and desserts, then order an entrée to be served tableside. Besides crab and ham, cooked-to-order entrées include eggs Benedict, roast duck, chicken, whitefish and salmon. "We serve brunch every Sunday, except on Easter we make it more extensive," said Wright, owner of the restaurant overlooking Little Glen Lake, formerly a century-old hotel. "We change our menu every day so there are two or three new entrées on the menu every Sunday." Easter brunch is served from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Reservations are accepted (334-0150). Prices range from about $12.95 to $25 depending on the entrée. Several Easter brunch specials will be offered along with the regular menu at Jolly Pumpkin in Traverse City. The Old Mission Peninsula restaurant overlooks a picturesque 11-acre property that includes seven acres of vineyards. Assistant General Manager Jim DeMarsh said the restaurant's Easter menu philosophy is the same as for its everyday menu. "We're always looking to use as much local produce and proteins as we can," DeMarsh said. Brunch specials include Ham and Eggs Pizza (made with ham, ricotta and manchego cheeses, roasted tomato sauce and two fried eggs), Frittata (made with spinach, shallots and goat cheese) with local potato home fries, Omelette (made with asparagus, bechamel and Leelanau raclette cheese) with home fries, Quiche (made with applewood smoked bacon, Swiss cheese and onions) with Werp Farms green salad, and Brioche Toast (housemade brioche french toast, local maple syrup and candied pecan butter). The Easter specials are served along with the regular menu from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. The frittata and omelette are $9; other specials are $11. For more information, call 223-4333. Brookside Inn's Shrimp and Shells Pasta Salad 1 box large-shell pasta, cooked and chilled 2 lbs. diced shrimp, cooked and chilled 3 c. celery, thinly sliced 1 batch dressing Dressing: 4 c. mayonnaise 1 c. sour cream 2 c. ketchup 1 c. prepared horseradish Zest and juice of 2 lemons Salt and pepper to taste Combine cooked pasta, shrimp and celery in a large mixing bowl. In another large mixing bowl, combine the dressing ingredients. Whisk until completely combined, then pour over pasta and shrimp. Mix well, then taste and add salt and pepper as needed. If making ahead of time, make sure to taste just before serving; salt and pepper may need to be added at that time. The Manor's Praline Sauce ½ c. light brown sugar 4 T. butter ¼ c. chopped pecans 2 T. heavy cream Measure butter and brown sugar in small saucepan; heat until both are melted, stirring occasionally. Take off heat, stir in pecans. Add heavy cream and stir until combined. Serve over ham and sweet potatoes.

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