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December 26, 2005Celebrate with a spreadBuffets pay off big during the holidaysKeep your ribbons and your bows, your stockings hung by the chimney with care. When it comes to the holidays, cut loose with an open house.All year long we have dinner parties, pretty quiet affairs usually, maybe six or eight friends sitting around enjoying food, wine and polite conversation. But at the holidays we can fill the house so full with people we care about that it seems close to bursting. And though the conversation may be a little loud to be considered strictly polite, the food had still better be great. The trick is getting all those people served. I've got a one-word answer: buffet. Properly carried out, it can be about as elegant as any meal you've ever served. All it takes is a little strategizing to get things right. But the payoffs are worth that small extra effort. Primary among them is that you, the cook, are freed from most kitchen duties once the guests arrive. Arrange the food on platters and in bowls, set them in the appropriate spots and except for periodic refreshing and neatening, you're pretty much done. You can enjoy the party too. Start with the centerpiece. Though one main course is enough for most dinner parties, with buffets, you're better off planning in multiples. A roast tenderloin of beef is about as impressive a centerpiece as you could want, particularly if you serve it with something such as a tart, slightly spicy horseradish creme fraiche (resist any thoughts of serving it with a jus or other sauces - when they cool, they become unpleasant). Though roast tenderloin is about as close to a guaranteed showstopper as you can get, there are few things simpler to prepare - season, sear and roast. There's nothing more to it. But not everyone eats beef (and at $15 a pound and more, it gets a little expensive for a crowd). So supplement it with a brined and roasted turkey breast. Or pick up a side of salmon and oven-poach it (bake it in a 300° oven over a baking pan of boiling water for 25 to 30 minutes - you won't believe how moist and buttery it turns out). The same horseradish sauce will work for either. A deep-dish vegetable tart will do double duty, working as an appetizer and a main course for vegetarians. Once you've prepared the dough and stir-fried the greens (things that can be done a day ahead), it comes together easily: Combine the vegetables, ricotta and eggs and bake them in a crisp pastry crust. Then there's the whole salad paradox. On the one hand, especially in the midst of the holiday food-a-thon, there are few things more welcome than a dish that is crisp and light. But most lettuces will go limp almost as soon as they are dressed; forget about them lasting an hour or more. Sturdy greens such as endive, radicchio and watercress will keep their crunch longer. These salads can be simple - just greens and a dressing - or they can be complex. Combine endive and watercress and top with buttery avocado and the sweet meat of a Dungeness crab and you've got another main dish. And don't ignore desserts. A spread of sweets can evoke awe and appreciation, and should not be overlooked. Set up your dessert bar in a different room or part of the room from your main buffet; making it part of a coffee service area is nice. Bring out your pedestal cake plates and tiered serving dishes. Both are wonderful here because displaying desserts at several levels makes the table seem less crowded and spotlights your creations. Slice some of the desserts before setting them out, but make pieces half the size of a normal serving (this goes for brownies and bars too). All of this sounds like a lot of work, and if you tried to do it all yourself, it would be. The secret is to pick your spots and fill in the gaps with good-quality prepared food. Remember, this open house is your holiday gift too. Chocolate Rigo Squares Chocolate cake: 6 oz. semisweet chocolate, finely chopped 6 large eggs, separated, at room temperature ½ c. sugar, divided Pinch of salt ¼ c. flour Set a rack in the middle level of the oven and heat the oven to 350°. Bring a small pan of water to a boil and turn off the heat. Combine the chocolate and one-fourth cup water in a heatproof bowl and place it over the pot of water. Stir until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Keep warm. For the cake batter, put the 6 egg yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer and whisk in one-fourth cup of the sugar by hand. Place the bowl on the mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip the mixture on medium-high speed until the yolks and sugar are light and thickened, about 2 minutes. If you only have one mixing bowl and one whisk, scrape the yolk mixture into another bowl. Wash the whisk and bowl in soapy water, then rinse and dry them. Put the six egg whites and salt in a clean, dry mixer bowl. Place on the mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, and whip the whites on medium speed until they are white, opaque and beginning to hold a very soft peak. Increase the speed to medium high and whip in the remaining ¼ c. sugar in a stream. Continue whipping the whites until they hold a firm peak. Stir the melted chocolate into the yolk mixture, immediately followed by one-fourth of the whipped egg whites. Sift and fold in the flour, and then fold in the remaining egg whites. Scrape the batter into a 12-by-18-inch jellyroll pan, bottom and sides buttered and lined with buttered parchment or foil. Use a spatula to spread the batter evenly. Bake the cake layer until it is risen (it will not rise very high) and firm when pressed with a fingertip, about 15 or 20 minutes. Use a spatula under the parchment to help lift the cake from the pan onto a wire rack to cool. Chocolate filling: 1½ c. heavy whipping cream 2 T. light corn syrup 2 T. butter 16 oz. semisweet chocolate, cut into ¼-inch pieces For the filling, bring the cream and corn syrup to a boil in a large saucepan, stirring occasionally to make sure that the corn syrup doesn't fall to the bottom and burn. Remove the pan from the heat and add the butter and chocolate. Gently shake the pan to make sure that the butter and chocolate are submerged, then wait 2 minutes for them to melt. Whisk the filling smooth and pour it into a bowl. Refrigerate the filling until it is about 80°, or until it is of spreading consistency, about 45 minutes. Don't leave the filling in the refrigerator too long or it will become too hard to whip. To assemble the cake, slide the paper with the cake still stuck to it onto a cutting board. Cut through both the paper and the cake with a sharp, serrated knife to make two 12-by-9-inch rectangles. Slide one off the cutting board. Scrape the cooled filling into the bowl of an electric mixer and beat it with the paddle on medium speed until it is lightened to a milk chocolate color. Don't over-beat or the filling will separate. Immediately use an offset spatula to spread the whipped filling evenly over the cake layer on the cutting board. Invert the remaining cake layer, still stuck to the paper for easy handling, to a cookie sheet with no sides or to a stiff rectangular piece of cardboard. Gently slide the cake layer into place over the filling. Carefully peel off the paper. Place a stiff cardboard or cookie sheet on the cake and gently press to make sure the top layer of cake adheres well to the filling. Refrigerate the cake while preparing the glaze. Glaze and assembly: ½ c. heavy whipping cream 2 T. light corn syrup 6 oz. semisweet chocolate, cut into ¼-inch pieces For the glaze, bring the cream and corn syrup to a simmer in a medium saucepan, stirring occasionally. Remove the pan from the heat and add the chocolate. Gently shake the pan, to make sure that all the chocolate is submerged, then wait 2 minutes for it to melt. Whisk the glaze just until smooth. Avoid whisking too much or the glaze will be riddled with bubbles. Let the glaze cool until it is just slightly warm to the touch, about 100° to 105°. After the glaze has cooled, remove the cake from the refrigerator and pour the glaze over it. Quickly spread the glaze evenly with a medium offset spatula. Don't worry about any glaze that drips down the sides of the cake; it will be trimmed away later. Refrigerate the cake again for at least 1 hour, or up to 24 hours, to set the glaze. Rinse a long, sharp, serrated knife in hot water, then wipe it dry with a cloth. Use the knife to trim the sides of the cake evenly, rinsing and wiping after each cut. Cut the cake into 1½-inch squares. Keep the cake refrigerated, but bring to room temperature for an hour or so before serving. Cover leftovers with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature again before serving. Makes about 30 squares Each serving: 247 calories; 4 grams protein; 21 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 17 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 66 mg. cholesterol; 27 mg. sodium. (Note: From "A Baker's Tour" by Nick Malgieri. Use high-quality chocolate such as Scharffen Berger 62% cacao semisweet chocolate) Roast Tenderloin of Beef with Horseradish Creme Fraiche 1 (3- to 4-lb.) beef tenderloin Salt Freshly ground black pepper Oil 1 (7½-oz.) container creme fraiche (about 1 cup) 3 to 5 t. cream-style prepared horseradish ¼ t. dry mustard 2 t. lemon juice 1 T. minced chives Salt the tenderloin liberally all over and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. About 30 minutes before cooking time, remove the meat from the refrigerator. Heat the oven to 325°. Pat the tenderloin completely dry with paper towels. Season generously with black pepper. When ready to cook, heat a large roasting pan over medium-high heat and add just enough oil to film the bottom of the pan, about 3 T. When the oil is almost smoking, add the tenderloin. Sear the tenderloin on one side, 3 to 4 minutes, and then repeat until the entire surface is well-browned. Place the pan in the oven and roast, turning the meat occasionally, until the interior temperature is 130° for rare, about 30 minutes, or 140° for medium rare, about 35 minutes. Remove the tenderloin from the oven and transfer it to a carving board. Tent lightly with aluminum foil and let rest at least 20 minutes before carving into ¼-inch slices. Make the sauce by whipping the creme fraiche with a whisk until it lightens, then whisking in the horseradish to taste, dry mustard, lemon juice and minced chives. Taste and adjust seasoning for lemon and salt. (Sauce can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead and refrigerated in a tightly covered container.) Makes eight to 12 servings. Each of 12 servings: 276 calories; 28 grams protein; 1 gram carbohydrate; 0 fiber; 17 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 91 mg. cholesterol; 80 mg. sodium. Espresso Angel Food Cake 1½ c. cake flour 1¾ c. sugar, divided ½ t. salt 12 egg whites, room temperature 1 ½ t. cream of tartar 4 t. Trablit, divided (see note) ½ c. heavy whipping cream 4 oz. semisweet chocolate, finely chopped Chocolate-covered espresso beans Fresh mint leaves Sift together the flour, three-fourths cup sugar and the salt three times. Beat the egg whites until foamy; beat in the cream of tartar. Slowly beat in the remaining cup of sugar until soft peaks form. Add the Trablit and beat for a few seconds just until mixed in. Fold the flour mixture into the egg white mixture in batches, one-quarter at a time, using a large whisk and incorporating gently. Spoon the batter into an ungreased 10-inch tube pan. Run a spatula through the middle of the batter to remove any air bubbles. Bake at 350° for 40 to 45 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out cleanly. Remove the cake from the oven. Invert it in the pan and cool completely before removing the cake. While the cake cools, make the ganache. In a small saucepan, bring the cream just to a simmer. Place the chopped chocolate and Trablit in a bowl. Pour the hot cream over. Let the mixture sit for a minute, then slowly stir to combine. Cover and set aside until ready to drizzle on the cake. If the ganache hardens, microwave it for a few seconds to get it to a pourable state. Place the cooled cake on a serving plate. Pour the ganache over the cake and decorate with chocolate-covered espresso beans and mint leaves. Makes 12 servings. Note: Trablit is a coffee extract available in some cooking supply stores. If you can't find it, substitute 1 T. instant espresso powder sifted into the flour mixture for the cake and 1½ t. espresso powder mixed into the cream for the ganache. Each serving: 285 calories; 6 grams protein; 49 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 7 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 14 mg. cholesterol; 157 mg. sodium. Dungeness Crab Salad with Avocado and Bitter Greens 3 heads Belgian endive 2 bunches watercress 1½ t. Dijon mustard 2 T. Champagne vinegar ½ t. salt ½ c. oil 2 T. chives, plus 1 tablespoon chopped for garnish 2 avocados 1 lb. picked-over Dungeness crab meat (about two 2½-lb. crabs, cooked and cleaned) Trim the stem ends of the endive. Cut each head lengthwise into quarters, and cut away the solid core. Slice the endive into thin, lengthwise ribbons. Trim any tough stems and faded leaves from the watercress, and tear into bite-sized pieces. (This dish can be prepared to this point a day ahead and refrigerated in a tightly covered container.) When almost ready to serve, prepare the vinaigrette by blending the mustard, vinegar, salt, oil and chives. You can do this in a small blender jar or by shaking vigorously in a small, tightly sealed jar. Combine the endive and watercress in a large mixing bowl and dress with about two-thirds of the vinaigrette. Toss to coat lightly, and thoroughly combine the endive and watercress. Arrange in a layer on a large platter. Pit and peel the avocados and cut into large dice. Place the avocado in the mixing bowl and dress with half the remaining vinaigrette. Stir gently to coat lightly without breaking up the avocado, and spoon in a single layer over the watercress and endive. Place the crab in the mixing bowl, add the remaining vinaigrette and toss gently to coat lightly without breaking up the crab pieces. Arrange the crab in a layer on top of the avocado, sprinkle with the remaining chopped chives and serve immediately. Each of 10 servings: 241 calories; 12 grams protein; 9 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams fiber; 18 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 45 mg. cholesterol; 308 mg. sodium. Tart of Mixed Greens Tart Shell 2 c. flour, divided, plus a little more for rolling 1 t. kosher salt 1 c. (2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into ¼-inch pieces ¼ c. ice water Canola oil Place 1 c. of the flour and the salt in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Turn to low speed and add a small handful of the butter at a time. When all the butter has been added, increase speed to medium and mix until the butter is completely blended with the flour. Reduce the speed, add the remaining flour and mix just to combine. Slowly add the water and mix until incorporated. The dough will come around the paddle and pull cleanly away from the sides of the bowl. It should feel smooth, not sticky. Remove the dough from the mixer and check to be certain that there are no pieces of butter remaining; if necessary, return the dough to the mixer and mix briefly again. Pat the dough into a 7- to 8-inch disk and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to a day. Lightly brush the inside of an 8-by-2-inch-high springform pan with canola oil and place it on a jellyroll pan. Place the dough on a floured surface and rub all sides with flour. Flatten it into a larger circle using a rolling pin or the heel of your hand. Roll out the dough into a circle about one-fourth inch thick and about 14 inches in diameter. (If the dough becomes very soft, refrigerate for a few minutes.) To lift the dough into the springform pan, place the rolling pin across the bottom edge and roll it up on the pin. Carefully lower it into the pan, pressing it gently against the sides and into the bottom corners. Trim any that extends more than an inch over the sides and reserve the scraps. Fold the excess dough over against the outside of the ring. (Preparing the tart shell this way will prevent it from shrinking down the sides as it bakes. The excess dough will be removed after the tart is baked.) Carefully check for any cracks or holes in the dough, and patch with the reserved pieces as necessary. Place in the refrigerator or freezer for at least 20 minutes to resolidify the butter. Reserve the remaining dough scraps. Set a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 375°. Line the tart shell with an oiled 16-inch round of parchment paper or aluminum foil. Fill the shell with pie weights or dried beans, gently guiding the weights into the corners of the shell and filling the shell completely. Bake the shell until the edges of the dough are lightly browned but the bottom is still light in color, 35 to 45 minutes. Carefully remove the parchment and weights. Check for any cracks or holes and patch with thin pieces of the reserved dough, if necessary. Return the shell to the oven until the bottom is a rich golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and prepare to fill immediately. Once again, check the dough for any cracks or holes, and patch if necessary before filling with the greens mixture. Leave the oven on. Filling and Assembly ¼ c. olive oil 8 c. coarsely chopped mustard greens, thick stems removed 8 c. coarsely chopped kale, thick stems removed 4 c. coarsely chopped white-ribbed chard leaves, thick stems removed 4 c. coarsely chopped dandelion greens, stemmed 1 c. chopped green onions, green parts only (1 bunch) 3 cloves garlic, minced Salt 1½ c. whole-milk ricotta 1 (5-oz.) log fresh goat cheese ¾ c. half-and-half Þ t. freshly ground black pepper Generous grating (Þ t.) fresh nutmeg 6 eggs ¾ c. freshly grated Parmesan While the tart shell is baking, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in the largest sauté pan you own. When the oil is hot, begin adding the greens, a couple of handfuls at a time and stir-frying them until they begin to wilt, about 3 minutes. When one batch of greens has wilted, add more and continue cooking until all of the greens have been cooked, about 12 to 15 minutes in all. Reduce heat to low, add the green onions and minced garlic and season with 1 t. salt. Cook until the garlic softens and becomes fragrant, about 5 minutes. You will have about 3 to 4 c. of cooked greens. Transfer the greens to a food processor and pulse 2 to 3 times to mince. Add the ricotta, goat cheese, half-and-half, ¼ t. salt, black pepper and nutmeg and pulse until thoroughly mixed. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add the eggs and pulse to combine thoroughly. Pour the filling into the baked tart shell. Sprinkle the Parmesan evenly over top. Bake at 375° until the tart is puffed in the center and golden on top, about 1 hour. A knife inserted in the center should come out clean. Set the tart aside to cool at least 30 minutes before serving at room temperature. Remove any overhanging dough, using a serrated knife. Gently free the springform pan and remove the outer ring. (This dish can be prepared one day ahead, cooled completely, covered tightly with aluminum foil and refrigerated. Reheat in a 350° oven before serving.) Makes 16 servings. Note: The tart shell is from Thomas Keller's cookbook "Bouchon." You can vary the proportions and the types of greens used as long as you wind up with roughly 24 cups with a variety of flavors and textures. Each serving: 344 calories; 13 grams protein; 20 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 24 grams fat; 13 grams saturated fat; 133 mg. cholesterol; 264 mg. sodium
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